Frequently Asked Questions For Investors

In March 2021, over 1,000 Thai garment workers were left without jobs after Brilliant Alliance Thai, a factory supplying Victoria’s Secret, closed due to bankruptcy. The factory failed to provide the 1,250 laid-off workers with their legally mandated severance pay-outs. After several months of protests and negotiations, the workers finally received an unprecedented $8.3 million settlement, with Victoria’s Secret contributing through a loan arrangement with the factory’s owners. About a year later, the closure of Vald’or, a garment factory in Haiti, left over 1,100 workers unemployed and without severance pay. The factory produced clothes for brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, owned by PVH. After the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) intervened, PVH agreed to pay $1 million in compensation to cover missed severance pay, as well as pension contributions for the workers, and the government pension fund. As a result, most former Vald’or workers received the equivalent of more than six months’ wages, with some obtaining over a year’s pay.

The Victoria’s Secret and PVH cases are examples of a growing trend of brands addressing wage-related issues at suppliers. Wage and severance theft is a widespread issue and has become one of the key ESG risks to take into account in the Textile, Garment, Shoe and Leather (TGSL) industry. Wage theft refers to the illegal withholding of wages or benefits owed to workers, while severance is the compensation paid to workers who have been laid off due to business closures or restructuring. Wage and severance theft is endemic to the TGSL industry. Trade unions and labour rights groups have documented dozens of cases in countries where textiles, garments, shoes and leather are produced.

Countering wage and severance theft, as well as supporting freedom of association, is highly relevant for Article 9 Funds. Funds that pursue a sustainable investment objective, as defined by the European Union’s Sustainable Finance Disclosure Regulation (SFDR), have a responsibility to ensure their investments contribute to ESG objectives. Wage and severance theft is unlawful, and therefore a key ESG risk for investors. The Pay Your Workers-Respect Labour Rights (PYW-RLR) Agreement aims to address this risk by establishing a legally binding and enforceable agreement between brands, employers, and unions. In this guidance document we explain how companies in the TGSL sector can use the PYW-RLR Agreement as an effective due diligence instrument to identify and mitigate risks related to wage and severance theft, and why investors should support and promote the Agreement.